Underground Belgrade tour

The renowned global film director Emir Kusturica, with his iconic film “UNDERGROUND,” clinched the Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival in 1995. The movie’s backdrop, set in the Belgrade underground, where the main characters hide from enemies during World War II in occupied Belgrade, possibly drew inspiration from tales of Belgrade’s subterranean mysteries. Indeed, scenes from this film were shot within the Belgrade Fortress and its locales, reflecting the enduring intrigue surrounding Belgrade’s hidden past.

The stories of Belgrade’s underground and its secrets have always sparked conversation among the city’s residents. Our tour offers a chance to hear some of these tales and explore parts of Belgrade’s subterranean world, shedding light on the city’s turbulent history, which, as the capital, has faced numerous invasions.

The “Underground Belgrade” tour starts at the entrance to Kalemegdan Park, in front of the city library. Our journey soon leads us to the Monument to France, erected in gratitude for France’s assistance during World War I, embodying the deep mutual affection between Serbia and France. The inscription on the monument celebrates this bond: “We love France as she has loved us 1914-1918.”

As we proceed, a stroll takes us past the Natural History Museum and through Stambol Gate, where we’re greeted by exhibits from the Military Museum and weaponry from both World Wars, leading us to our first destination: the Roman Well. Despite its name, this well dates back to the 18th century, with “Roman” attributed to locals eager to emphasize its antiquity. Its mystique, depth, and size command awe from all who visit. Spiraling staircases lead down to its 61-meter depth, debunking myths of a tunnel connection to the Sava River. This site, rich in secrets and untold stories, offers a unique opportunity to delve into some of them.

Across from the well, nearly hidden from view lies a military bunker created shortly after World War II during the 1948 conflict between Yugoslavia and the Soviet Union. Anticipating possible military aggression, this bunker was constructed as part of Belgrade’s defense strategy. Its existence remained a military secret until 2008 when it was opened to civilians. Designed to withstand a nuclear attack, it represents a significant period in Yugoslav history.

The Barutana (Gunpowder Magazine) dates back to the 18th century under Austro-Hungarian rule and was constructed in just two years. Embedded in a hill facing the Danube, it served as a storage facility for gunpowder, later fortified with a concrete wall for protection against enemy assaults. Today, it has been partially repurposed as a gallery and museum showcasing Roman monuments (Lapidarium), sarcophagi, and altars collected from various sites around Belgrade, offering a glimpse into the era of Roman dominance in the region.

Our tour ends in one of Belgrade’s cellars, where we’ll share impressions and camaraderie over a glass of fine wine, reflecting on the complex layers of history and culture that have shaped this city’s identity. This exploration of “Underground Belgrade” uncovers the city’s hidden past and connects participants to the enduring spirit of resistance and survival that defines Belgrade.